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Friday, 2 June 2017

Nightgown alteration + hem monsters

I altered a nightgown recently! (Edit: it was recently completed when I started this post, but it's been sitting in my drafts for a while now. I also have a pair of stays I finished last month and have yet to blog about...)
It's one of those old fashioned fine cotton ones with very long pintucks.
Before.

It had these stupid 3/4 length sleeves with button cuffs on them. What's the point of cuffs there?? They were way too short to reach my wrist, and so tiny that buttoning them around my arm was impossible.

Bad and foolish sleeves, so I cut them off. I turned one of them into bias binding for the armholes, and the other I used as a collar ruffle. I was very indecisive about the collar, but eventually went with a stand collar and put a ruffle along the top. There wasn't quite enough sleeve material for the collar itself, so I used a different scrap of white cotton.

After.


I wanted to put monsters all around the hem, just because.
 I drew a bunch of them in my sketchbook and used the ones I liked best on the nightgown.

I did some practice monsters on a scrap of sleeve. (Which turned out blurry after steaming because I didn't rinse it in dye set solution.)
I drew out my monsters all around the hem with a fabric marker, which I got recently and I like very much! It's the sort that disappears when you put water on it.
In the textiles studio we use these delightful little pointy tipped squeezy bottles for drawing with resist on silk scarves, and I used my finest tipped one to draw my monsters on with black dye paste. (Which is a thing we mix up in the textiles studio, and I shan't get into the particulars of it now)
Always, always wear gloves when working with PRO MX fiber reactive dyes.
My monsters turned out so nice! With proper setting and washing they didn't blur at all.
Front.

Back.
And here are some detail shots of them.



This one is my favorite:
I have decided that her name is Elyse, and have drawn a few more pictures of her.
She enjoys rollerskating, gardening, and is working on her masters degree in architecture.
And she does have a lower jaw, it's just very thin.
Here's the nightgown worn with the ruffly bed jacket, which goes very comfortably over sleeveless nightgowns.
(I know it's not a remotely masculine looking ensemble, but it's for at home, so who cares?)
I need to make more sleeveless nightgowns, so I can wear this jacket more. It's comfortable and I like it.
(Photo credit to Naxius)
I also made a dressing gown a few weeks ago, which is pretty simple so I'm sticking it onto the end of this post instead of doing a separate one.
Old gown on the left, new one on the right.
She had this other dressing gown that was very worn out, and I just made a copy of this. All the pieces are rectangles, except the main piece, which is a rectangle with a big slit halfway down it that's rounded at the end for the neck.
And here she is wearing it! Photo taken by my father.
It was supposed to be a mothers day present but it was a bit late.

Wednesday, 17 May 2017

Ruffled bed jacket

I made a short, ruffly jacket to wear over sleeveless nightgowns. I was inspired by the one from The Secret of Moonacre, which I think is very cute and just the right length to wear while sitting up in bed reading.
 The pattern was pretty simple. I traced the sleeve of my frock coat and the top part of a waistcoat pattern with the front edge trimmed down a bit.
This started out as just a test run of the pattern, but I decided to make it wearable. I will make another version soon, with a bit more ease added to the shoulders.
It's sewn up in a fine blue cotton stripe fabric, with a floral print lining.
For the ruffles I cut strips along the width of the fabric. The cuffs were half a width each, the bottom ruffle was 2 widths, and the front & neck hole ruffle was 3.
It's all machine sewn, except for the lining armholes.
Unfortunately, this is not my colour at all. It was waaaay too light and bright of a blue, and it looked terrible on me.
So I dyed it with 50/50 grey and teal, and now it's much better!
I suspect the lining may be a poly/cotton blend, because it didn't take the dye as well. But that's ok, it came out a nice grey.
The polyester thread I used is still bright blue, but it's not too noticeable.
Here I am wearing it over a shirt, which is a bit bulky and difficult to get into cotton lined sleeves. I'll wear it properly over a nightgown in a later post.

Oh! And here's something I forgot to mention in the "smallish things" post!
I did a trade with a friend at school who is in pottery. I printed 2 sad dinosaur shirts for Chase Benjamin Ceramics and he put a decal on a mug for me!
It's my own drawing, that I did specifically for this mug. I love my bird mug very much.

Saturday, 29 April 2017

A few smallish things

I haven't got any newly completed garments at the moment, but I have some other things that I haven't blogged about. A few days ago I finished this box. 

I started it a couple years ago in bookbinding class, and now I've finally gotten around to covering it and gluing it together. I think I had originally intended it to be a sewing box with a more elaborate interior, but I just wanted to get it off the Unfinished Things pile, so the inside is plain striped quilting cotton. The outside is covered in black cotton twill.
I didn't cut my pieces as accurately as I should have, but the lid fits pretty well.
Not sure what I'll use it for. It still could be a sewing box.
I made this green hat in felt class, shortly before I made my tricorn. I didn't make my pattern big enough so it came out really, really small, and barely fits this foam head.
I think it's still at school, and I don't have any use for it.
I carved a linoleum block a couple days ago! It was a commission for a heart & stroke event.
Speaking of commissions, two people are going to buy these shitty dinosaur prints from me, and I am amazed.
Two humans got me to print these and will pay me real actual money for them.

I posted about the fish I block printed, but I never posted this other block I did for class, so here are some pictures of it.
I did some prints on a piece of paper.
And some on fabric.
I haven't done anything with these 3 bits of cotton yet, but they were fun to print. Though I wish the edges hadn't printed darker than the middle of the block.
It's a half drop repeat, with swirliboops based on the ones I embroidered on my waistcoat.
I will hopefully have some finished sewing things soon!

Friday, 21 April 2017

Red Wool Waistcoat

I finished this a few weeks ago and am rather late posting it. It's made from the same re-used coat fabric as that awful fur trimmed waistcoat I did a few years ago. The biggest coat bits left were a tad too small, and I had to piece the side corners on.
It's interfaced along the front with heavy cotton twill. (The hair canvas I have is quite flimsy and wouldn't have made a difference on this fabric.) The edge around the front is folded in and sewn down.

The wool is thick and felted enough that I didn't feel the need to turn the edge in around the pocket hole.


The pockets and lining are both cotton quilting prints, and I can't remember where either of them came from. The back is a thick textured cotton from an old curtain.
The buttons are plastic, and aren't even trying to look like metal, but at least the star design on them looks suitable for the 18th century.
They're nice buttons at a distance.
The main construction seams are machine sewn, and the lining is hand sewn in.


The buttonholes are hand done too, as the wool is too thick to fit under the buttonhole foot.

Done!
It fits pretty well, since I actually mocked up my pattern this time...


 Though I'm late posting it here, I finished this in time for the March HSM challenge.

What the item is: A red wool waistcoat.
The Challenge, and how this item fulfills it: #3, The Great Outdoors. My waistcoat is good for cold weather, and the outdoors was quite cold when I made this, though it's warming up now.
Material: Red wool from a secondhand coat, quilting cotton for the lining, heavy rough cotton of some sort for the back.
Pattern: My own.
Year: 1770's-1780's
Notions: 12 plastic buttons, heavy cotton twill to interface the fronts, thread.
How historically accurate is it? The materials aren't accurate, but the pattern is, and I think the construction is overall fairly accurate. The look isn't too far off, but the wool is MUCH too thick for a waistcoat, and the buttons are obviously not metal when you look at them up close.
Hours to complete: Maybe about 25 or 30? I had a time sheet, but kept forgetting to update it.
First worn: March 28th, 2017
Total cost: $3.60 (the buttons were the only thing I bought, and they were quite cheap)
I made a small squid with some of the scraps, but there are still so many left. So many coat bits.
I've been using Small Squid Friend as a sleeve roll, because my sleeve board needs a new cover and I've been putting off making one. I should do that soon...