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Wednesday, 31 December 2014

Big Black Tailored Overcoat

One of the classes this year was Tailoring, and I am making a coat. The class is over, but my coat isn't quite finished yet. I gave my pattern a very big collar and lapels.
The mockup.
Since it's such a long and involved process, I'm not going to go through every single step of making it.
The sleeve being sewn.
 My fabric is wool melton, and my lining is rayon bemberg with blue & burgundy threads.
The back lining.
This is the canvas interfacing I used for the front. The assignment only required fusible interfacing, but I wanted to use canvas, much to the delight of my teacher. The black line is a bit of cotton zig zagged over the hole where the dart is, and the grey stuff is wool, which is also zigged to the canvas.
 Here's my under collar.

 And here it is with some of the pad stitching finished.
 Pocket flaps. They're lined in the same black cotton as the pocket bags are made of.

I did a prick-stitch around the edge of the pocket flaps.
The dart in the front stops just above the pocket.
Attaching the welt and pocket flap.
 After sewing the pocket bag on I had to attach the canvas to the front piece.
 I cut a rectangular hole through the canvas so the pocket could sit on the other side of it.
Cross stitching the pocket allowances to the canvas.

The top of the pocket bag, with the allowances nicely secured.
 Lots of temporary basting.
 The lapels with lots of pad stitching.
 Tailor's tape on the roll line.
The allowances of the canvas trimmed back to the stitch line, and fusible tape put all around the edge.

 Putting the shoulder pad in.
The cross stitched edge is the front one. The back edge hangs free.
 The shoulder pad basted in.
From the back.
And from the front.
Prick stitching the seam where the lining is sewn to the facing.
Here's the front with the facing sewn on.
 It's been pressed, but still looks a little baggy because the edge hasn't been prick-stitched, and the lining isn't all attached.
 This is what the coat looks like at the moment.
 The collar isn't together yet, but the sleeves are.

I can't proceed further without instructions from my tailoring teacher, so I'll finish this when I get back to school. I'm really looking forward to wearing it.

Monday, 15 December 2014

Blue- Green Watch Fobs

I've finally made a pair of watch fobs! I love watch fobs and have wanted to make some ever since I read this post.
Here is my Pinterest board of extant watch fobs, all of which are from the Met because I can't find any anywhere else.
I made a couple of braided cords out of silk yarn. I didn't take any pictures of that, or the book where I got the braiding instructions. I will cover that more thoroughly in the next watch fob post.
My two braids. One flat, one round.
Since the measurements the Met gives shows the average length to be 40 cm, I made my braids 80 cm and doubled them.
 I folded the middle of them over a little copper ring.
The end before I trimmed the loose threads.
I finished off the ends by poking the loose threads back into the end of the braid with a darning needle and trimming them off.
I stitched the two ends together and decorated them.
The one on the left has a glass bead I found on the sidewalk ten years ago, the one on the right has a fake stone thing I got at Michaels, and an old metal button. They both have sparkly flower jewellery bits (also from Michaels) and 3 little tassels each, which I made out of metallic thread.

I'm slightly annoyed at how the little tassels behave. They are very easy to knock out of place, and stick up at weird angles.
I have a piece of wool in my sash that matches these beautifully! I intend to use it in my line for a waistcoat, with the model wearing these fobs, and piece together a waistcoat for myself out of the scraps.


The Challenge: #23- Modern History (Because of course I'm going to wear them for everyday once I have breeches.)
Fabric: Nope
Pattern: None
Year: Late 1770's to 1790's
Notions: Silk yarn, one glass bead, 3 rhinestone thingies, one metal shank button, two small copper rings, metallic thread, light grey thread, green thread
How historically accurate is it? Not all that great. The extant watch fobs are much more detailed and use better materials. I'll try to do better next time.
Hours to complete: No idea.
First worn: Not yet! I just finished these yesterday, but I need watch pockets to wear them and haven't made proper breeches yet.
Total cost: Maybe about 3 dollars?
I like them, but I'm not thrilled. I'm going to be making a lot more watch fobs because they are a lot of fun. It's difficult to find appropriate baubles for them though. I've gathered together all the potentially watch fob-able shiny things I have, and there's not much. Next time I'm definitely going to put more effort into my tassels.

Update: It's been a day since I finished them and I already hate them. I'll have to disassemble and re- make them.